Just a Common Man...

So, I feel a little background about me, who I am, how I live, and why I choose to make style a priority in my life is in store. I'm sure most people in my profession, and with my income, do not put such priority on how they dress as I do. Not to say they dress poorly, but that they choose to spend their hard earned money on other things, things that hold higher importance to them than the vain exterior. What can I say? I'm vain. It makes me happy, and I'm lucky enough to have a family that supports me, and is happy with who I am, and who they are inspite of, or because of me.

Firstly, for those of you who don't know, I'm an employee of the City of New York. I teach American History to 14 year olds here in Brooklyn. It's not as challenging as it may seem. I earn anywhere between $60 and $75k per year, depending on overtime available. I live and work in close proximity (less than a mile) so commuting costs me nothing. In fact, at the end of the year, when you total it all up I, as well as my colleagues, have a decent amount of disposable income, even after mortgage and childcare responsibilities.

Where my colleagues and I differ is how we spend that money. Many teachers take two or three vacations a year, with can cost anywhere from $2500 per trip per person (when totalling all money spent) and up. I don't. Some opt for two cars in their household, since my wife and I work together (it's where we met), we needn't. Others choose to pay close to $200 a month just for a parking spot in our notoriously tough-to-park-in neighborhood, Bay Ridge. I don't. Others wouldn't blink an eye at dropping $500 in Atlantic City for a weekend. I would, my eyes would be sewn shut. This year I've even sold my NY Ranger season tickets (can't imagine we'll have much time or energy to get to the Garden with two rug rats crawling around!). By the end of the year, the money that others put toward foreign vacations, nights on the town, commuting costs and trips to the casinos, I put toward my wardrobe. It makes me happy in the same way that others find happiness in the things previously listed. I am by no means a monetarily rich man, where I am rich, is in the family that I love. I have a wife, who shares my philosophy on spending for vacations, commuting, and entertainment. She also supports my "vanity" by encouraging me to feel good in my clothing purchases. I have generous parents, who take our family on vacations whenever its feasible. In fact, this year we were guests for two weeks on the beach in two of the East Coast's finest beach resort towns. First, we spent seven days in Hilton Head Island, SC, and then a week in Victorian Cape May, NJ. They also help subsidize our childcare costs, without the "drag" of being French socialists.

I even manage to be fortunate enough to have a decent savings program through my job (TRS and TDA) so that our future will be just as bright, if not brighter, than our present. Also, a benefit of being a teacher here in NYC, I have job security, something that in this day in age is a real luxury. While others cut back their spending in tough times, retailers are forced to give better and more frequent sales. This enables people like me to be able to keep our retail spending and get more for our money. That's exactly what I've been able to do in the last few years, while not breaking the budget. In fact, I'm proud about how well I can shop, and what I can get for my money.

They key in this regard, is to practice. Like anything else in life, you get better at things the more you do them. Now, this doesn't mean that one has to spend to get better, but you certainly must look. The more you look, the more you see. The more you see, the more you know what you like, and whats for you. You more you know...well, you know, don't you?

I will rarely pay full price for anything, but still don't sacrifice exactly what I want. If I buy something OTR (off the rack) it needs to be exactly what I'm looking for, at half to a quarter of the retail price, otherwise I won't buy it. What I won't hesitate to buy at full price, is bespoke, which doesn't go "on sale". Again, here I was blessed with a lucky find, Frank at Ercole's. Although his prices are at the lower end of bespoke clothing (a three piece suit for ~$1500) his work is impeccable, and from my experience, as well as the experience of others whose bespoke wardrobes range from Ercole's to A&S or other Savile Row firms; his work is just as good as anyone elses. He also has a knack for my "type". Now I know what many of you may think, "Jesus man, you're a teacher, what the hell do you need a $1500 suit for?" I don't need it. I need it as much as someone making a comparable salary to me needs a European vacation, or a few trips a year to AC. I want it, just like others want those things. That's where our differing priorities come into play. I'm just as happy to stay home and watch TV for a weekend with my wife and daughter, and one day take advantage of NYC's great public parks, to go play ball with our son, than to spend a weekend in Newport, or Martha's Vinyard, or Atlantic City. My $1500 suit doesn't seem so extravagant now.

Its easy to dress well when you have a disposable income thats comparable to the national budgets of most Central American nations, but to do it when your budget is limited, is a real challenge. So while I have been eliminated in Esquire's Best Dressed Real Man Competition this past week, I feel alright. I know that most of the five finalists, based on their profiles, who are impeccable dressers and have great individual style, are also men of more means than myself. To know, that I have been able to hang around with the likes of these fellas, and be in competition with them, makes me feel very good about myself, and about the choices I have made.

Seersucker For City Summers

Most people who know, know that seersucker is a classic staple of a gentleman's summer wardrobe. We've all seen the image...southern men, meandering around their plantation grounds carrying a mint julep, wearing their seersucker suits, but for the city seersucker can look, well, just plain affected. I thought about this when comissioning my last bespoke piece at Ercole's this June. I wanted something for summer, and the warmer weather that pre and procedes it and love the seersucker fabric, but didn't want a "typical" seersucker jacket. Well, I found a terrific fabric, a navy on navy medium wale seersucker that Frank and I had pieced together in a two button jacket.



As with all of my coats, I like them to be a touch on the shorter side and double vented (to accomodate my hockey player posterior), and Frank knows this. I decided that eventhough this would be a summer jacket, it should be lined fully, as I didn't want patch pockets on her. Frank found a great cotton shirting fabric in stock with the colors of the NY Mets (blue, orange, and white...the whole new black thing in their colors still irks me) and we decided that it would be perfect. I also had him make me a square in the same cotton fabric. We went with two standard flap pockets, a breast pocket, and three and a quarter inch lapels that had somewhat of a higher than normal gorge. We also took all padding out of the shoulders and kept his house Neapolitan or "waterfall" shoulder-arm seem connection. For finishing touches we went with white MOP buttons (4 on the sleeve) and at Frank's suggestion we sewed a white edge to the lapel buttonhole which really helps the jacket "pop".



Some pictures of the first fitting:




I want this jacket to be my go-to summer jacket. A blazer, but not. I will wear this in the warmer months with attire that I would normally wear my navy blazer with when the mercury drops a few inches on my thermometer. Jeans (white or lighter washed), khakis, seersucker pants will all compliment the navy coloring of this jacket well. I think I've succeeded in creating (well, Frank has succeeded in creating) a summer jacket that will give me plenty of years of wear with the versatility of the ubiquitous navy blazer, even with the ability to turn it out with some Breuckelen edge to it.



And some photos of the jacket in action. First paired with a pair of fine waled khaki seersucker pants (by Ercole) with two inch cuffs, white suede Peale wingtip bucks, a small blue gingham shirt (Ercole again) and a Ben Silver tie (that my wife got me for my birthday!). You can see the square Frank made eeking out of the breast pocket as well. Covering my head is a linen cap from City Hats in London.





A second look, for a more casual wearing:

Jeans are Citizens for Humanity in a light wash, Jack Purcells by Converse for John Varvatos, ribbon belt is by Atelier F&B Geneve, red micro-gingham shirt by JCrew, and the square is by Brooks Brothers.



NYR.

NewYorkRanger's Blog - An Introduction

Alright, so I've decided to take up blogging. I've decided just boring myself with my thoughts was not nearly enough, so I'm bringing it to Al Gore's internet, and the world. I hope those of you reading this will enjoy my posts and enjoy what I have to share. So, now you're probably asking yourself, "Self, what the hell is this blog going to focus on?"

NewYorkRanger will be focusing on life, his life, and some of the things important to me. First and foremost, there's my family. My beautiful wife, my extraordinarily wonderful daughter, my soon to be extraordinary son will be the primary subjects of any "family posts".

I'll also be focusing on men's clothing. Fresh from my elimination from Esquire magazine's Best Dressed Real Man competition you'll hear my thoughts on the latest trends, some classic styling, bespoke, and any other satorial issues that come to mind. You'll most likely be hearing a lot about my favorite tailor, Frank, over at Ercole's Creative Fashion in Brooklyn and some of my favorite brands. Being a family guy, and not a "baller", you'll most likely see posts that intertwine the two in my posts. You'll also be hearing some about two of my favorite men's web sites, Ask Andy About Clothes and StyleForum. These sites focus on men's clothing and style and have some similarities and some glaring differences. Be forewarned, there may be some "venting".

Some other things that you may read about here from time to time are the New York Rangers, the NHL in general, Manchester City Football Club, the EPL, and international football. Some other sporting events may also be discussed, but the main portion of my sporting commentary will focus on those fora.

You may even hear some opinions on my profession, being a teacher. I don't define myself as one, but it is a profession that I enjoy, and at times love. I enjoy the kids I teach, I enjoy the subject I teach (History) but I do have some serious issues with some stereotyping of the occupation which in my mind has led to the demise of the current "teacher" in the United States.

Hell, you may even hear some political thoughts as well.

I'm sure I'm forgetting somethings, but that's life isn't it? Especially when you have a 14 month old running circles around you.



I hope you all enjoy what I have to say, in yet not another blog.